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Part
2: Cellar Construction |
If you have the luxury
of starting from scratch, try to pick a space that is not
exposed directly to the sun. Preferably the basement. If
it is above ground try to locate it near the center part
of the home.
The room you choose will also need a space
next to it that can handle the exhaust from the cooling
unit. This means that the room adjacent to the wine cellar
is large enough to dissipate the warm air that is discharged,
and preferably has a source of fresh air. |
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I think the best advise I
can give outside of the racking is don't skimp on materials!
Your wine will thank you for it. We are going to use the
following materials to construct an air-tight, water-tight
enclosure that will allow fine wine to mature under optimal
conditions. |
What
is structurally involved in building a cellar? |
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1. Wall & Ceiling Construction
Use 2’ x 4’s or 2’ x 6’s in framing
the walls. Use at least a 2’ x 8’ in framing the ceiling.
All are 16” on center. Remember the more room for insulation
the better (I like to frame with 2' x 6's.) |
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Vapor Barrier

figure 1

figure 2
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2. Vapor Barrier
A 6 ml plastic barrier (available at most larger home- stores)
wrapped around the entire room including the ceiling is the only
way to seal the room against moisture transfer.
Apply the vapor barrier to the "warm side" of the wall.
The side of the wall that houses the wine is the "cool"
side.
- If you have access to both sides of your wall
studs, install the barrier between the studs and sheetrock on
the warm side of the wall.
(see figure 1)
- If you do not have access to both sides of
your studs (i.e. your studs are attached to a solid surface
such as concrete or brick, the room is a remodel, etc.), wrap
the studs and create a cavity for your insulation.
(see figure 2)
What we are trying to prevent is the warm air
from an adjacent room or the outside to come through the wall
and hit the cool air of the wine cellar. When this happens you
get condensation. And over a long period of time, with
a lot of condensation forming, you can have issues with mold and
mildew.
By simply putting a vapor barrier on the outside of the wall,
this will prevent the warm air from traveling through the wall,
thus preventing condensation. |
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Insulation

Fiberglass roll insulation
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3. Insulation
You can use fiberglass batts, rigid foam or blown in insulation.
There ought to be minimum of R-19 in the walls and R-30 in the ceiling.
The R-value is an insulation designation. Basically the higher the
R value the better the insulation. |
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GreenBoard sheetrock
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4. Sheetrock
For longevity add moisture resistant sheet rock (green board)
over the studs and insulation. Then add a wall treatment that
suits your tastes.
Before you finish mudding, double check to make
sure all air leaks in the room are sealed tight. Make sure to
tightly seal and weather strip holes in your sheetrock from light
switches, cooling units, power outlets, etc. |
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Wall Treatment |
5. Wall Treatment
One of the most common questions we get is, "What should
I cover the walls with?"
The answer of course, is, "Whatever makes
you the happiest." Here are some common choices...
- Latex paint applied to create an "aged"
effect
- Sanded paint or stucco
- Tile or slate
- Faux rock
- Tongue & groove wood paneling
- River rock, flagstone or travertine
The moisture content in the room should rule
out any materials that don't do well in a damp environment. Be
creative and really have fun! |
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Flooring
Definitely use a solid surface - something that spilled wine or
moisture won’t hurt. Sealed hardwood, tile, stone, & sealed
concrete are all popular choices. No carpet, as mold and mildew
will show up very quickly. |
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Doors & Windows
The added expense of building a quality wine cellar that includes
insulation, a cooling unit, moisture resistant sheetrock, etc,
needs to also include high quality doors & windows. These
two items are responsible for more temperature and moisture exchange
than any other part of your cellar.
Doors - Exterior grade only. Whether it is made
from wood, metal, glass, or something else, exterior grade doors
will hold in the cold best.
Make sure to weather strip around the entire door,
and get a threshold and sweep that fits snugly against the floor.
The idea here is to keep the cool air in, and the warm air out.
The most common reason that a cooler runs continually is an improperly
installed door. If your door is to include glass, always opt for
double or (even better) triple pane, thermal insulated glass installed
by a reputable source.
Windows - Same basic principles
as the door. Quality insulated glass, a high quality frame and
good sealant should be your rule of thumb.
You CANNOT go overboard when it comes to sealing
up your cellar. Use caulk, sheetrock mud, super glue, gum (ha
ha) - anything you can find to seal every crack and crevice before
you insulate and vapor lock. |
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Lighting
Always opt for below-ceiling lighting from a low
wattage source. Avoid recessed 'can' lighting.
Try a low wattage track lighting system, or some
wall sconces placed just above the racking. Rope lighting, candles,
and even LED lighting can add interesting touches to your cellar
decor.
If you put the light switch on a timer, you won't
have to worry about the lights being left on after you have visited
the cellar a couple of times during the evening. Cellared wine
does not like bright lights for long periods of time. |
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Racks America |
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